The German government just emailed us a wonderful CD of photos from the Jugendbegegnung, which we are allowed to use for our own purposes as long as we provide the appropriate credit. For me, these images speak louder than my distorted aural memory of the occasion: in the absence of perfect comprehension, my visual intake has never been as sharp. And so, inspired, I return to the notes I accumulated before I got sick – to the beginning:
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The conference began on a gray Saturday afternoon at the Jungendgästehaus in Dachau with an opening discussion surrounding the question “was geht mich das noch an?” – what does this have to do with me? How does this involve me? A very Passover question – a similarity no doubt lost on many – but just one of the frequent curious overlaps I’ve noticed with Jewish themes, this business of asking question, of remembering, of gathering and talking together. Sometimes I felt the Germans have become more Jewish, the Jews more German, but that neither party has a foot enough in the other world to know or notice…

Gerta Hasselfeldt, Vice-President - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO

Max Mannheimer, Auschwitz & Dachau Survivor - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO

"Was geht mich das noch an?" - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
Various representatives of the Bundestag (German government) and Max Mannheimer, Jewish survivor of Dachau and Auschwitz spoke and responded to questions, the underlying format for all of our encounters with officials throughout the conference. We then had the option of choosing among six different Arbeitsgruppen (working groups), with the themes Sinti und Roma im KZ Dachau, Jüdische Häftlinge im KZ Dachau (Jewish Prisoners in Dachau), Aussenlager des KZ Dachau (working camps surrounding the actual concentration camps, where workers were essentially enslaved at organizations such as BMW), Die Stadt Dachau und das Lager (the city and the camp), Denkmal und Erinnerungskultur (Monuments and Memory Culture), and Tat und Täter (the Act and the Perpetrator — or really, the do and the doer — I love the simplicity of German, sometimes).
My first choice was Tat und Täter — I am fairly well versed with the plight of the prisoner at this point, several YA Books hammering the question “what would this have been like” into my head at a young age, forming the backbone of my rather grim, atheistic view on life to date — and wanted to learn more about the other side. But it seems that several others felt similarly (perhaps because of the pretty young tour guide who presented the topic), so I landed my second choice, Sinti und Roma, and I am grateful for it. Both for the chance to learn a story entirely new to me, and for the people in the group, who, though often several years younger than I, essentially swept me into their embrace and took care of me.

Arbeitsgruppe Eins - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
The first full day, we all toured the camp of Dachau.

Dachau - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
There is very little to say of the experience, at least emotionally: both times I have visited camps have resulted in an absence of feeling: I am moved at so many mundane, prosaic things (ambulances, babies, standing ovations), that perhaps the greatest respect I can pay something is simply not to feel. To be left cold (which we were, terribly, three hours outside in a German January). I stood in the gas chambers, I stood in the crematorium, and I did not shed a tear: in part, it was not the time. I was with strangers and I recognized, on some level, that I was a symbol, the American Jew from afar: my tears would have meant something beyond me, and I wasn’t ready to take on that symbolism.

Dachau - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
In a strange way, this ended my experience with the Holocaust as a Jewish event – while I was acutely aware at all times of where I came from and why I was at this conference, my focus was on the story of the Roma and Sinti.
Before my first trip to Germany three years ago, what did I know about WWII? I have a very modest history education: I know the world through its artistic artifacts, through sounds and sights, not men and acts and laws – and my 11th grade course on American history. There was that American girl book on WWII, those serious YA books, Maus, degenerate art, Elie Weisel, Benjamin, Zweig, snippets of family history, war movies. Since then I have been filling in the gaps (about this sad story, but the history of Europe in general), and I am still regularly humbled by how little I know about this world.
Here’s one thing I didn’t know: the Nazis killed 500,000* Roma und Sinti. That is “gypsies,” wandering people, die Zigeuner – Roma referring to the Eastern European population, Sinti, the West. Following the visit to the actual camp, our group spent the next day and a half reviewing the narratives of four Roma and Sinti men who were imprisoned in Dachau, reading actual briefs from the Nuremburg Trials, and tracing the doctors’ reports of the “Seawater Experiments” performed on prisoners (as ordered by Himmler, to test tablets intended to mitigate the effects of drinking sea water, to benefits members of the Luftwaffe who ended up in the North Sea).

At work - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO

At work - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
Along with other neglected Holocaust victims, such as homosexuals, disabled, and religious prisoners, the Roma and Sinti have only begun to receive recognition in the last 20 years. This is in part due to the lack of an organized Roma and Sinti movement until the beginning of the 80s, which is related to the continuing discrimination their people face in Europe. Noch ein wichtiges Thema – still an important issue in German politics, as Germany struggles with the different non-citizen populations living within its borders: along with the Sinti, Turkish immigrants (the story of the decade in Berlin), Kosovo refuges – as I learned during the conference – forced to return to the Balkans after 15 years in Germany. All cousins to our own immigration problems here in the US. Again and again, I see our humanfolk struggling with the ‘wandering people’ of the world, on an individual level – of distrust & fear, resistance to change, do not love thy neighbor – and on a governmental level – calling into question taxation, the distribution of social resources, and threatening the majority identity in a land…
(With the Jews and the Germans, it’s still about the land.
But in the end, isn’t it always about the land?)

Roma and Sinti Timeline - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
Learning about a non-Jewish holocaust (in fact, the Roma and Sinti call it Porajmos, as distinct from The Shoah, if you’d like to be technical) was perhaps one of the most revelatory aspects of this trip. As ambivalent as I feel about claiming the Holocaust as “my story” or my “family’s story,” the history of the Roma and Sinti was even less my story — and I deeply felt the difference. Open as I am to Germany, the culture, the history, my German family, I didn’t realize how personally I hold the Holocaust in my own life, how the stories of the 40s are seared into my consciousness, my fears, my pride, my basest beliefs about human nature.
But I did not take on the German perspective, either — later, sitting in a train compartment from Nuremburg to Berlin, trading stories of where our grandparents were then, how they were or weren’t involved — I saw that I was not implicated by my grandparents, did not carry the guilt, or even the probability of guilt, of a family in a smaller, less wandering country than our vast, ever-shifting US, surrounded by those seas of supposed innocence.
Rather, this was like learning about Armenia or Rwanda — it affected and affronted my sense of humanity, but it did not cut to the core, constrict the throat, invade dreams.**
I’m not sure what to make of this yet, but I find my own reaction upsetting.
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Somewhere during all this, something beautiful happened: over the course of a day and a half of deep discussion of one of the most evil events in human history, on the very land where the Täter tat - I fell in love, collectively, with Arbeitsgruppe Eins. I have a few theories for this:
- I think we were united in part by our shared compassion for the stories of the people we studied ***
- Young Europeans, and Germans in particular, who are willing to engage with this subject tend to be incredibly compassionate, generous people.
- Arbeitsgruppe Eins were just good folk.
We were a good international blend – Mainly Germans, we also had a young man from Poland, a young man from the Czech Republic, and me, of course, a rather exotic figure in this context (ha!). And, as I said, they took care of me – offered me whispered explanations of directions and speeches (even when I understood!), claimed me as theirs and saved me seats, encouraged me through difficult grammatical constructions, and eventually worked out a fluid system of language, where we all alternated between English and German, Deutsch und Englisch, depending on the whim of the moment. All this without any of the American “trust-building” exercises I’m familiar from orientations at college and summer camps. Simple good-natured communal spirit.
I knew so little of them, but I watched so closely and listened so closely (I had to) that I could write volumes on each.
But I’m fading, and this is a public space. So, I’ll trail off — but, as this entirely lacks conclusion, with every intention of continuing the task initially laid out — at some point –

Arbeitsgruppe Eins through the Snow - Quelle: Deutscher Bundestag / AMO
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* Recently I was incredulous to see I have accumulated 1000 friends on facebook: How do I know 1000 people? And how many people that? I’m not even friends with my mother on Facbeook. And then to think – 500,000. 500 times as many people in my virtual social network.)
** In fact, my uncle told me that there is a program called Abraham’s Vision, which exposes Israeli and Palestinian youths to the conflict in former Yugoslavia. Wise.
*** I won’t discuss it here – but yes, I did find it extremely problematic to discuss a group of people wasn’t in the room – a very American reaction, which hopefully I will discuss elsewhere, if I can find the follow through. (– and was there some relief in not having to review the story of the Jews, die Juden once again? Or am I just imposing my own relief?)
Posted in Words
Tags: dachau, Germany, loving humanity, roma und sinti, symbols, WWII